East Gippsland based bushwalking club, Ben Cruachan Walking Club, recently headed to Mt Bogong for a club adventure. Here’s the story of their achievement:
One of the unique aspects of bushwalking is the capacity to feel both humbled and exhilarated in equal measures. And the recent walk up Mt Bogong achieved just that.
Mt Bogong, at 1986m, is Victoria’s highest peak and often on The List for hikers who seek a serious challenge. And the quiet ‘chuffed-ness’ that comes from reaching such an iconic summit.
The initial hike was scheduled for late Sept, but the date was later changed to reduce the chances of snow, and gain longer daylight hours. Some who had listed to hike could then no longer participate. However, three hale and hardy hikers travelled to Tawonga South, staying in a comfortable ‘tin roof tent’ before and after the hike.
Saturday dawned, and with packs loaded, we drove off towards Mountain Creek Campsite, parking close by. Then, donning packs, and with grit, determination and not a small amount of excitement, walked the undulating path to the trail head.
Birdsong rang out, a cacophony of trills and tunes which filled the air, and bade well for the day ahead. A clear and rapidly flowing creek added to the soundscape. Towering Eucalypts reached for the sky, whilst at their base, a riot of vegetation nestled about the trunks. Tree ferns rose from the moist soil, their soft fronts creating an umbrella of protection for that which was underneath. Some of these were huge, and knowing that these (Dicksonia antarctica) can be slow growing (5 – 20 cm a year) added another layer of awe to the landscape.
At the trailhead, the Intentions Book (located ‘herein’ the sign board) was completed and the climb began. The Staircase route is one that goes ever up. Indeed, for some 9 km, gaining around 1300m in elevation before reaching the summit. The track was of a similar gradient in most parts to the lung busting, leg quivering, ‘life affirming’ climb from Dibbins Hut towards Derrick Hut. Leaving at 7.30 am we felt we had the track to ourselves. And, indeed, didn’t see another person until towards the summit. And they were heading downwards.
To ascend such a humbling track requires regular rest stops, a wise ‘refueling’ schedule, and a positive mindset. And the hikers embraced all of these. Looking out to the surrounding hills, as the track rose, gave a sense of how far above the valley we were.
Bivouac was the first hut we reached, and this compact structure offers shelter and a drop toilet. And views out over Eskdale Spur and beyond.
From there, the landscape continued to change. Having left the mighty Eucalypts found at the trail head well behind, we hiked past stands of wattles in bloom, with birds flitting about between the branches. Then, gnarly Snow Gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) were trackside, before the classic alpine demarcation line was crossed. With no trees to be seen, tough Alpine grasses and other foliage surrounded the rocky path to the top. And around this time, the Alpine walk became truly Alpine, with the clouds closing in, obscuring our distant views, and the moist air leading to additional clothing layers.
However, this brought with it a particularly atmospheric perspective to the walk, primal almost, as the earthly elements (wind and water) enveloped us.
The perilous nature of hiking alpine regions was evident upon passing the memorial to 3 people who perished during a blizzard in 1943.
Upon reaching the intersecting track, near the summit, we turned right and continued another 300m or so. The Cairn emerged from the swirling mists, which were driven by a brisk wind. Sheltering behind the large cairn, we spoke of the sense of achievement, having hiked a solid uphill for some 4 ½ hrs, and the value of not lingering too long in the chilly conditions.
And although we didn’t have sweeping views of distant mountains that Bogong provides on a clear day, we did have a deeply immersive alpine experience, whilst wisely utilizing our quality outdoor wear.
Walking back out in to the ever increasing wind, we turned left at the poorly positioned ‘Esdale Spur’ sign, and headed off the exposed landscape. Shale underfoot made foot placement a thing of caution. However, before too long, we were back in the shelter of trees.
Turning away from the track that is along Granite Flat Spur, we soon came upon Michell Hut where an ‘exclusive lunch booking’ ensured we had the impressive hut (and its convenient steps) to ourselves. The toilet must experience considerable wind (no flatulence puns intended) as the door hinges were industrial grade, and handwritten pleas on both interior and exterior outlined the importance of ensuring the door was latched.
After Michell, the rocky nature of the track abated somewhat. However, continuing ever downwards brought its own challenges, with rocking rolling out from under boots at the least expected times. The surrounding vegetation returned to those impressive Eucalypts, flowers became more prolific and birdsong returned.
After some 4.5 km, we reached the end of the descent, and Mountain Creek Road. Resting up, and comparing knee integrity, we continued the 4 km or so along, or adjacent to, a 4WD track back to the car. By now, Cicadas were at full volume and their loud calls, vibrated from very active tymbals, filling the air. Resting at Staircase trailhead, we retrieved the Intentions book (located ‘herein’) and proudly noted our safe return, and that we had “Nailed It”
Striding along the road it there was a sense of exhilaration, having achieved the summiting Mt Bogong, both facing and overcoming the challenge of the climbs up and down. But also, to feel humbled by our how insignificant we are when surrounded by an ancient landscape, and one that can be so unforgiving to those who folly.
A fantastic hiking experience, made even more memorable by the great company of Debbie and Michael.
Report and photos courtesy of Kerry Knights.
For more information about upcoming walks with Ben Cruachan Bushwalking Club, visit https://bcwc.au/
For more information on how to prepare for an alpine walk, head over to Alpine Walks Demand Alpine Preparation – Any Time of Year.
